Makeup In-Person Vs. In-Photo (Oscars 2015)

This is a great example of how makeup in-person can looks dramatically heavier prior to being photographed. Even though the pic on the left is a photo, it captures what it looks like in-person for some reason.  I would assume it is due to the lighting possibly without a flash and the quality of the camera (phone).
When I am working on clients strictly for photo I know I can get away with a lot more product.  However more often than not, the makeup is for in-person and also for photo.  This is when I have to find the right balance combining the best of both worlds, after getting an undertanding of what kind of look will help my client look and feel the way they want to look and feel.  Often they don't know what exactly that is, which is when I ask questions and take into consideration who they are and what they are wearing, to make their dreams (they didn't know they had) realized.
Unfortunately, more is often less when it comes to the way makeup comes across in photographs.  However some looks require very little makeup to look absolutely lovely in a photo, in that you don't have to have contouring all over the face, false lashes, and heavy shadows and powders.  Although a powder finish (using a translucent) is a must for photos because of the way light reflects off powder, and translucent powders don't add cakiness.
Some clients want to feel and look they don't have much makeup on their skin, or eyes, or lips, or a combo. So it's important that whatever we really want to show up in a photo has the right depth of color/light/shadow, along with what suits the client.  Some clients are quite comfortable in makeup, and so using products that are soft and blended well suits them just fine.  It's about implementing all the factors together.
My point is that often makeup looks softer and less makeup-y once it is photographed, and to achieve a naturalness in person, it will often look even lighter in a photograph.  The trick is finding a balance, choosing products carefully, and using a heavy/light-handedness based off the medium of observation, and what suits the client.

2015 Award Season: Red Lips

Claire Danes at PGA Awards by @itsmatin and Emma Stone at the SAG Awards

Two beautifully done red lips!  First thing with red lips, in my book, is that the complexion must be perfect. It's hard to pull off a red lip without a full face of makeup even though you want to look like you're wearing nothing but the red lip of course.  I would assume they are both wearing a full coverage foundation, concealer, lingtly contoured cheek bones, a hint of blush (more on the cheekbone than the apple as to not appear clown-like), setting powder, and it looks like Claire is wearing highlighter as well.
They both have little lid showing, however you can tell that Claire has a neutral flesh toned shadow and Emma has a a thicker lined eye with some darker brown shadow on top, which she can pull off since barely any lid shows.  Black liner is a must with a red lip, either subtly (like on Claire), or thicker and more dramatic like on Emma.  I think Emma pulls this more dramatic eye off with the edginess of her jewlery, hair color, and more filled-in starker brow.  I'm not a huge fan of dramatic false lashes with a red lip or it can look like a cancan girl.
Applying a red lip is a whole other story:  Concealer or a clear lip pencil around the edge.  Lip liner and or lip stain.  Lipstick.  A little gloss, then more liner. Sometimes it's as easy as a stain, or a liner and gloss...  And picking a color?  Put reds on the back of your hand (the side the sun sees) and you'll see which tones warm up your skin vs. making your skin look more grey, dull, or ashy.

SAG Awards: This look disected

I like her look.  However I would like to see a few tweaks, and mostly; I'm not sure if I would pair it with this dress and hair, but it is beautifully done.
The positives:  This is a great example of how browns/bronzes make blue eyes really pop, and I love a bronze eye with a purple-hued lip.  It's a great combo.
The negatives:  I would have liked to see added just a little more bronzer throughout the face (not in the cheek contour) to blend the harsh smokeyness of the eye in contrast to the colorful lip.  Obviously the dress is stark white with a lot of structure.  The hair is sleek and pulled back. I think this calls for more of a polished look with structure, like an upper only lined and slightly-winged eye,  instead of this more rich bohemian eye that has so much depth.
In my opinion the makeup would better suit softer hair and/or softer material for the dress, like something flowy, silky, or better yet a different color.  Maybe even yellow!? Purple with yellow is really pretty.  Yes something yellow with a soft ruffle on a shoulder strap or something.  Hope that makes sense.  Sometimes a client wants what they want, and this is very pretty, just my take if someone asked me to critique to the fullest, which they didn't.  So maybe I should keep my mouth shut.  Great colors and very pretty though.

Golden Globes: 80s Eye Trend

I saw a ton of super 80s-looking eyes on the 2015 Golden Globes red carpet (think 80s blush swept backwards...or in this case 80s eyeshadow swept backwards).  This example on Jessica Chastain is where it was done right.  It is paired with a pretty simple lip, and uses brown shades instead of black.  I saw other not-so-hot examples with a bright red lip and it was just too much toghether, unless it was for an editorial shoot, as opposed to being for the red carpet.  I will not name names but two Girls stars both had it and I thought "uh oh tone down either the lip or eye a little!"  This works not only with the lip but with the hair and wardrobe.  The clasic waves in the hair contrast it and give it some edge, and the makeup suits the dress, that to me is like a modern take on a dress Michelle Pfiefer might have worn in Scarface.  All the elements come together in this look.

Golden Globes: Modern Ethereal Glam

Diane Kruger, The Wall Group

The point of interest with this look is the frosty inner eye, and it is done right.  When there is too much frost all over the face it can look sweaty, trashy, or juvenille.  However when it is paired with all matte makeup on the rest of the face, other than the glossy lip, it looks sophisticated, and is a sublte way to pair the silver from the dress and jewelry with the makeup. The frosty ashy-shell color is brought just to the center of the eyelid as well, but is surrounded by neutral matte shadows in the mauve/brown tones, that way they don't blend to look grey.  Soft pinks/mauves in the cheek and lip pair really well with silver and natural tones on the eye, as to keep the whole look soft, without contrast in the rest of the face.  The soft waves in her hair tie the softness of the makeup in with the dress, and it comes together perfectly.

Maui Wedding Makeup

Old Hollywood glamour on Tina for her Gatsby-themed wedding
Photography by Amour Aeternus

Tina wanted a red lip and a "Gatsby" eye for her themed wedding in Maui at the Hotel Wailea.  I used lip stain, lip liner, and gloss. I went with a classic thin-winged-eyeliner and a subtle taupe in the crease of her eye, along with filling in her brows and a great compleion.

Bridal Makeup, featured on Style Me Pretty

Bridal makeup featured on Style Me Pretty
Photography: Dmitri and Sandra Photography
Styling: Maui's Angels 

There was a vintage feel to this shoot, with lots of antiques and driftwood.  There were lilacs and greys throughout the setting and so I tied these shades into the look.  Greys and purples are not necessarily a first choice on warm skintones, so it was important that I chose shades that flattered her skintone and also used some warmer pink and peach tones to warm up and blend with the lavendar and grey.

Editorial makeup for Food and Wine Magazine

Fun on Set with Ty Burrell and Viet Pham.  Men's grooming is always fun.

Maui Bridal Makeup w 3 simple adjustments

More saturation of color, with softer hair.

Less saturation of color, with more polished classic hair.

bridal makeup
Photography: Rodrigo Moraes

Red lip, with polished classic hair.

Maui Bridal Party Look

I used neutral matte shadows to contour Stephanies eyes.  I applied a soft bronze shimmer under her eyes to give a softer more bohemian look as opposed to more of a crisp classic look.  The strategically placed bronzer with the bright peachy pink lip went together beautifully on her skintone.

bridal party makeup, Maui

Maui Bridal Makeup

Sneek-peek bridal makeup, Maui, HI

On Lorrie I used soft purples to make her green eyes pop, with a subtle yet intense black liner and a few single lashes.  I also gave her a great complexion blending multiple products.

Utah Wedding Makeup

Mel's Bridal Makeup

Mel is a girl who loves makeup.   She wanted more of fairytale bridal look, for lack of a better term.  With her eyes I created the perfect shape using dramatic eyeliner.  We used full coverage products using colors great on her skin tone in the pink family.

High School Graduation Makeup

Highschool graduation makeup

On McKell I wanted to keep it youthful and sophisticated so we used some subtle shades of shadow, keeping the liner close the eye so that it didn't look too grown up.  I made sure she felt beautiful, while keeping it mother approved ;).

Utah Wedding Makeup

bridal makeup photography by www.carlaboecklin.com www.facebook.com/Carla.Boecklin.Photography

I wanted to enhance Havilah's warm glow for her Winter wedding, and did so by using burnished warm shadow shades with a natural lip color, while keeping it simple as per request.

Wedding Makeup Cabo San Lucas

Lizzie wanted natural makeup that would feel lightweight, especially under the Mexican sun.  We used sheer oil free products, and went with pinks and peaches as to keep her looking fresh and feminine, while also tying in her jewlery.  The look was a sophisticated and classic.

Wedding Makeup, Cabo

At the last minute Sarah, Lizzie's cousin, had me do her eyes cheeks and lips.  We went with complexion flattering tones in bronze, olive, and apricot, to polish her look.

Wedding Makeup in Park City

Wedding Makeup, Photography by Aria Park City

Heidi was a more typical bride in that she didn't typically wear much makeup, so we used lighter products that would look natural in person, while making sure that she would look just as fabulous in photographs.  We took time to tweak each aspect until it was just perfect through a trial run through, and the day of she was at ease knowing what exactly to expect.  A trial is a great option if a bride has some aprehension about getting her makeup done.

Commercial Makeup

Dr. Marga's ad as seen in Delta Sky Magazine, Photgraphy by Josh Blumental

My goal with Dr. Marga was that I bring out her personality into a natural look, so that she was able to feel confident while the spotlight was on her.

Engagement Makeup

Engagement Makeup, Photography by Jamie Lou Photography

Kim loves makeup so I was able to have some fun with her eyes.  Most importantly I wanted her to be able to have a little more of a playful look for her engagements so I went with a must have for warmer skin tones: Nars blush in Orgasm.  I love how it pops in the picture and her playful makeup matches her playful nature.

Final Touches

Application

Sometimes you have to finish with a pop of blush.  As everything comes together and finally warms to the face I find that it can almost become too blended, and you need that pop of blush right at the end.

Wedding Party Makeup

Wedding Party Makeup

Wedding Party Makeup

All of the bridesmaids received shades from similar palletes in the lavendar/navy/grey shades to fit the color scheme of the wedding.